BRIDGE
Standard – French hand carved for proper fit: correct string height and separation, feet thinned and shaped to the top of each individual instrument.
French Stamped – Higher quality bridge for better tonality.
French Deluxe Stamped – Our top quality bridge cut for professional needs.
Recut bridge – Adjustment lowers action of strings to fingerboard.
ENDBUTTON
New end-button, Ebony – Shaped with tools for secure fit into the endblock.
FINGERBOARD
New fingerboard – Fitted to neck and planed to specifications.
Reglue fingerboard – Original fingerboard fitted to neck at the proper height.
Reglue fingerboard partial – Attached with fresh glue and clamps.
Replane fingerboard – Removes string wear and some warping and buzzing.
Wedge under fingerboard – (Student instrument only) Attached with heat, fresh glue and clamps; adjusting neck to proper the angle or shimming to proper overall thickness.
*Note: May also require recutting the bridge or fitting a new bridge at an additional cost.
NECK
New neck – Carved, neck joint refitted and set to the proper angle, varnished to match the body.
Reset neck – Joint refitted and set to the proper angle, attached with heat, fresh glue, and clamps.
Reset neck needs false button added (For student instruments only) – Insert a piece of wood to support the neck and the broken button.
Reset neck needs button graft added – Insert a piece of wood hidden in the original button and neck.
Neck graft – (Fine instruments only) A new neck is attached to the original scroll and varnished to match.
*Note: May also require recutting the bridge or fitting a new bridge at an additional cost.
NUT
New nut – Hand-carved from a solid block of ebony, attached with heat, fresh glue and clamps; removes some buzzing.
Reglue nut – Attached with heat, fresh glue and clamps.
PEG
New peg – Replaced if it is too short. Also, sometimes peg hole needs re-fitting if it is too loose.
Good quality ebony – Shaped with tools for secure fit into peg box.
High quality pegs – Shaped with tools for secure fit into peg box usually to match the trim or accessories (gold, boxwood, etc.)
Rebush peg hole & install peg – Replacing mechanical pegs or over-worn peg holes with glued boxwood inserts, hole re-opened and shaped with reamer.
TAILPIECE
New tailpiece – Replaced if broken or to match new accessories, too long or too short.
New tailpiece gut – Nylon tail gut for violin, viola, cello; Nylon or Steel cable for bass.
SOUND POST
New sound post – Hand-cut spruce with angled ends to match inside top and back surfaces, set at the proper position.
Reset sound post – Sometimes loosening strings or a sudden jar will make the sound post fall; Sound post can be re-adjusted to change the sound and projection of instrument.
SADDLE
New saddle – Hand-carved from a solid block of ebony, attached with heat, fresh glue and clamps; stabilizes and aids in anchoring high-tension strings to instrument.
Reglue saddle – Attached with heat, fresh glue and clamps.
OPEN INSTRUMENT REPAIR
Remove & Replace Top – Crack or hole in the top, sides or back; Or interior woodwork has come loose.
Repair crack with cleats – Maple or spruce cut to a traversing support cleat that holds crack together.
Repair crack with patch – Maple or spruce cut and inlaid then graduated to match interior surface.
Bass bar – Bass bar is loose or needs replacing.
Endblock – Endblock is loosened by a poorly fitting or worn end-button; Or, top, sides and ribs have come away through extremes in temperature and humidity.
Neckblock – Reset or replaced when neck will not reset at proper angle.
*Note: The repair may require making a top or back mold at additional cost.
REPAIR CRACK FROM OUTSIDE
Reglue openings, per inch – Attached with heat, fresh glue and clamps.
Repair corner, no purfling – Carved, grafted and varnished to match.
Repair corner with purfling – Carved, grafted, inlaid with purfling and varnished to match.*