Here at Antonio Strad Violin, only the highest standards and quality materials are used on all repairs and each set-up. Services range from minor adjustments to complete restorations. Our goal is to achieve the highest level of comfort, playability and tonal resonance for you and your instrument. |
Bridge
- Standard - French hand carved for proper fit: correct string height and separation, feet thinned and shaped to the top of each individual instrument.
- French Stamped - Higher quality bridge for better tonality.
- French Deluxe Stamped - Our top quality bridge cut for professional needs.
- Recut bridge - Adjustment lowers action of strings to fingerboard
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Endbutton
- New end-button, ebony - Shaped with tools for secure fit into the endblock
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Fingerboard *
- New fingerboard - Fitted to neck and planed to specifications.
- Reglue fingerboard - Original fingerboard fitted to neck at the proper height.
- Reglue fingerboard partial - Attached with fresh glue and clamps.
- Replane fingerboard - Removes string wear and some warping and buzzing.
- Wedge under fingerboard - (Student instrument only) Attached with heat, fresh glue and clamps; adjusting neck to proper the angle or shimming to proper overall thickness.
*Note: May also require recutting the bridge or fitting a new bridge at an additional cost. Instrument Top
Neck*
- New neck - Carved, neck joint refitted and set to the proper angle, varnished to match the body.
- Reset neck - Joint refitted and set to the proper angle, attached with heat, fresh glue, and clamps.
- Reset neck needs false button added (For student instruments only) - Insert a piece of wood to support the neck and the broken button.
- Reset neck needs button graft added - Insert a piece of wood hidden in the original button and neck.
- Neck graft - (Fine instruments only) A new neck is attached to the original scroll and varnished to match.
*Note: May also require recutting the bridge or fitting a new bridge at an additional cost
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Nut
- New nut - Hand-carved from a solid block of ebony, attached with heat, fresh glue and clamps; removes some buzzing.
- Reglue nut - Attached with heat, fresh glue and clamps.
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Peg
- New peg- if it is too short. Also sometimes peg hole needs re-fitting if it too loose.
- Good quality ebony - Shaped with tools for secure fit into peg box.
- High quality pegs - Shaped with tools for secure fit into peg box usually to match the trim or accessories (gold, boxwood, etc.)
- Rebush peg hole & install peg - Replacing mechanical pegs or over-worn peg holes with glued boxwood inserts, hole re-opened and shaped with reamer
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Tailpiece
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New tailpiece - Replaced if broken or to match new accessories,
too long or too short.
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New tailpiece gut - Nylon tail gut for violin, viola, cello; Nylon or Steel cable for bass.
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Sound post
- New sound post - Hand-cut spruce with angled ends to match inside top and back surfaces, set at the proper position.
- Reset sound post - Sometimes loosening strings or a sudden jar will make the sound post fall; Sound post can be re-adjusted to change the sound and projection of instrument.
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Saddle
- New saddle - Hand-carved from a solid block of ebony, attached with heat, fresh glue and clamps; stabilizes and aids in anchoring high-tension strings to instrument.
- Reglue saddle - Attached with heat, fresh glue and clamps.
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Open Instrument Repair
- Remove & Replace Top - Crack or hole in the top, sides or back; Or interior woodwork has come loose.
- Repair crack with cleats - Maple or spruce cut to a traversing support cleat that holds crack together.
- Repair crack with patch - Maple or spruce cut and inlaid then graduated to match interior surface.
- Bass bar - Bass bar is loose or needs replacing.
- Endblock - Endblock is loosened by a poorly fitting or worn end-button; Or, top, sides and ribs have come away through extremes in temperature and humidity.
- Neckblock - Reset or replaced when neck will not reset at proper angle
Note: The repair may require making a top or back mold at additional cost
Repair Crack From Outside
- Reglue openings, per inch - Attached with heat, fresh glue and clamps.
- Repair corner, no purfling - Carved, grafted and varnished to match.
- Repair corner with purfling - Carved, grafted, inlaid with purfling and varnished to match.
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General Bow Repair Description
Bow Hair
- Rehair - Proper amount of Mongolian horsehair: tied, combed and mounted in tip and frog, new plug carved if necessary.
- Clean Hair - Commercial grade cleaner used to clean discolored hair that is otherwise still good.
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Tip Repair
- Broken Tip - If possible, all original pieces are glued and clamped together.
- Tip Graft (including rehair) - Tip grafted with original pieces.
- New Bone Tip - Bone is carved, shaped and attached with fresh glue and clamp.
- Retie at Tip - Hair has come unmounted from loosened tie or missing tip block
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Frog Repair
- Retie at Frog - Hair has worked loose from the screw or block inside the frog.
- New Ferrule Wedge - Wedge is missing or broken.
- Rebush ebony frog for eyelet - Eyelet hole is stripped; hole is filled with ebony and re-opened for proper eyelet fit.
- New slide, mother of pearl - Damaged slide replaced.
- Frog graft - Any piece is missing from the ebony main body, attach a matching wood and fix to meet the style.
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Screw and Eyelet
- New screw & eyelet - Worn eyelet & screw replaced.
- New eyelet - Worn or stripped eyelet replaced Note: Additional charge for re-threading and regrinding if necessary.
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Stick Repair
- Recamber fine bow - Corrects the warp and returns proper curve to stick.
- Crack in stick; Small crack at button; Button graft - These cracks may be small or otherwise not easily seen without careful examination, but very important to find and repair.
Note: Additional charge for winding & thumbgrip.
- New leather thumbgrip - Leather padding; replaced for comfortable control when bowing.
- New winding - Silver wire is standard, but there are a variety of metals and alloys available.
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